I’ve been surfing for 30 years and as I get older I’m starting to realise how important it is to live your life to the maximum. This got me thinking as why I have managed to surf for so long, why is surfing so addictive?
During a surf trip to the Maldives I was able to really set my mind free and I soon came to realise that Surfing is so addictive because of the rewards and feelings that come from the anticipation and riding of waves. Waves are a created from storms out at sea and are full of energy and I believe that the energy is transferred into your soul during surfing.
As surfers, whether we mean to or not we use surfing as a distraction from our everyday lives. The act of Surfing demands that you are completely in the here and now and in turn means that you can not think about anything else. Whats truly magical about this is that we can use Surfing to conquer anything. These are the three fundamental elements that makes surfing so addictive.
- and Stoke
When you couple these with the energy from the ocean you have the perfect recipe for happiness and an environment where we can reset our mind, body and soul.